Thursday, May 1, 2014

The Jubilant Ones

Dennis and I just  returned from a whirlwind trip to Panama City  (24hrs.) where we finalized the process for our pensionado visa.  We flew over late Tuesday afternoon and were met by Sourey (I hope I spelled her name correctly) early Wednesday morning.  She made a day of long lines, downed computers, turned off air conditioners due to power conservation, and bureaucratic red tape actually pleasurable.
 I have to mention that Sourey is an intelligent young journalism student at the University and we had the best time chatting about the upcoming presidential election, good books, family, and our philosophical approaches to life.  Anyone traveling to PC and in need of a guide to maneuver the streets, and even find a great Chinese restaurant in which to celebrate, should contract Sourey.  In addition, her driving skills are beyond excellent.  I normally have white knuckles the entire time I am in Panama City, and I only jumped once (my fault, not hers)  while she wove her way through the city.   Her knowledge, patience, and cheerful demeanor helped guide us through the fairly painless process, and we were on a bus heading home by late afternoon.
The process required a trip to the US Embassy to notarize our Idaho driver licenses.  After checking our phones and camera and going through a security check in one building, we walked to the US Embassy building where we paid to have our licenses notarized.  Running into another expat we met from Playa Barqueta and had dinner with the night before was fun too.
Next stop was the Panama Ministry of Foreign Affairs for them to certify our drivers licenses, a process which involved the bank downstairs,  and a quick jump to the head of the jubilado line upstairs.  The process is a bit more involved, but makes sense in some very Twilight Zone sort of way.
 For the uninformed, the jubilado line is for seniors and is something the US should take note of.  There is a deep respect for seniors here and that includes the idea that older folks should not have to stand in long lines.  Respect for older citizens is just one of the many things I love about Panama.
Then over to the Panama Immigration Office.  Things slowed down a bit here. and the place was packed due to the computers being down.  This is so typical that we are used to it and waited patiently with the hundreds of other folks milling around. We chatted with another expat from Aguadulce, and the time flew.   It really is quite an efficient system, and I know I am probably in the minority for saying that, but it's true.  We took care of our paperwork, and then sat for some very unflattering photos for our residency cards. No retakes folks.
We decided to celebrate with Chinese food at Sunly, which was yummy and cheap by PC standards and then headed to the bus station to catch the bus home.  This was my first experience with a double decker bus.  Our seats were on top with great views (at least until dark).  We had heard about the mandatory stops to check for contraband and drugs, but it was still a bit disconcerting to see the officials go through everyone's personal belongings.  The thing I can't figure out is there was a whole storage area under the bus filled with suitcases, packages, and backpacks left unsearched.  Perplexing.
  We arrived in David around midnight, took a quick cab ride to the airport where we had left our car and headed home.  Two very tired but happy jubilados.
"THROW YOUR DREAMS INTO SPACE LIKE A KITE, AND YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT IT WILL BRING BACK,  A NEW LIFE,  A NEW FRIEND,  A NEW LOVE, A NEW COUNTRY."  Anais Nin
Driving up to the US Embassy


Next stop

Sourey and I smile through the paperwork

Trying to read a favorite author in Spanish


Taking a break in Santiago

Albrook Bus Terminal

Immigration office


Sunday, April 20, 2014

A Time to Remember

It's Easter/Ishtar around the world and people are celebrating with friends and family.  Some will go to church, children will hunt eggs and devour Easter baskets filled with candy,  people with gather around tables with exquisite tablecloths covered with delicious treats,  and TV's will broadcast numerous sports games, and for most, this will be a day of joy.
We had planned on joining friends today for an Easter meal, but sadly, had to cancel our plans as our good friend, Lesia's mother had passed away, and she was making plans for the long trip back to Canada.  This got me to thinking about Irene, my mother-in-law, who passed away not long ago and my beautiful daughter, Tymara, who left us way too soon at 23.  Taking time to honor their memories is something I do on a regular basis, but today was extra sweet.
I am reminded of how precious life is and how absolutely blessed my life is.  That's not too say that I don't have sorrow, pain,  or petty annoyances.  To be sure, I do, especially with not having water for 8 days, knees and a back that remind me constantly I am not 20, and a relationship that challenges me daily to be a better person.  I take for granted my safety, but today I do not take that lightly.
For the past few weeks, there has been an intensive search for two young Dutch girls spending time here in Boquete.  The community came together with local government officials to follow any clues that might lead to their whereabouts.  With a heavy heart, I share the news that they are still missing and the official search has been called off.
Dennis was very excited to tell me a high school friend of his, Ed Marzek,  was climbing Mt. Everest.  He was following his progress with great anticipation, but then his excitement turned to concern as he relayed the news of a massive avalanche that took the lives of 16 people.  3 of the men were with the expedition Ed was on.  He shared a letter from Ed stating that the sherpas had voted to suspend any more trips this year as a memorial to the lives lost, only to add, that the American tour operators were trying to overthrow this vote in favor of the revenue such trekking inspires.  This saddens me to no end when I hear that greed outweighs compassion for the worst disaster Mt. Everest has every experienced.
Which brings me to what I had really planned on sharing in this blog.  The news has been giving a lot of coverage on the Rwanda genocide that occurred 20 years ago.  Most people I know haven't given it much thought as it is lightyears away from our protected world of privilege.  However, a few weeks ago, I met a beautiful soul named Francois, who was from Rwanda, and asked if I would come to a gathering in remembrance of what happened.  I believe there are no chance meetings, and so I accepted her invitation and spent a memorable evening with several genuinely compassionate people, who saw the importance in remembering and taking time to honor the many lives lost. We lit candles and stood in contemplation, while Piero shared a brief history leading up to the genocide and how no one tried to intervene.  Many have seen Hotel Rwanda, which is the Hollywood version of what happened, but the truth that speaks to me is how we don't see that we are all connected and affected by non-action.  History continues to repeat itself in many parts of the world when we don't realize that borders are artificial boundaries and that we are all human beings on a single planet where to do nothing is the real evil.  I found comfort in the many voices that came together and left with the belief that each one of us has a responsibility to make a difference in whatever way that manifests in our lives.
I know today's blog is not a tribute to the wonderful life we are living here in Panama, but in a way, it really is.  Yesterday, I stood in a room with men and women from the UK, Rwanda, Panama, Trinidad, and the US.  We were united in our prayer for peace for all.  And that's a wonderful tribute to Panama and anywhere else I happen to find myself.

“In all my travels, I've never seen a country's population more determined to forgive, and to build and succeed than in Rwanda.” 
― Rick WarrenThe Bishop of Rwanda: Finding Forgiveness Amidst a Pile of Bones

Piero shares a history of Rwanda's genocide

Small alter

My friend, Francois





Friday, April 18, 2014

Walking on Sunshine

Dennis and I were out on our morning walk this morning and couldn't help but notice how lovely the day is early in the morning before things get busy.  We've been trying to progressively add a little time on to each walk and so, with that in mind, I dangled a 'carrot' in front of Dennis.  "Let's walk all the way to San Francisco Plaza, and you can have coffee and a strudel before heading home."
I wanted to share some pics of the surrounding neighborhood with those of you at home who wonder what our neck of the woods looks like.
The area is growing, although not too fast.  We have noticed new homes going in, trees being logged, and fields being cut.  We have 2 new neighbors putting up homes in the empty lots next to us and one I hear, is an Italian chef.  Oh boy!  Can't wait to meet him.   We also noticed a lot where trees were logged and milled on the spot for lumber for a home going in around the corner from us.  Progress is everywhere.  What I appreciate is that much of the surrounding flora is left untouched and there seems to be a respect for the use of the resources by not overcutting.  We are in a rural area and hope it stays like this for a long long time.
We decided to take a side road and avoid the cars on the Palmira road.  That was nice.  We saw a new area we hadn't explored and I took a few pics of the homes along the way.
Making our way down to SF Plaza, we then realized it was Good Friday. The parking lot was empty and the stores were all closed.  Dennis was sad.  No sweet roll for his efforts.
Apparently, we weren't the only ones out for a stroll.  Two cows were crossing the road and off on their own morning adventure.  They didn't seem very concerned about the traffic around them, or me, taking their pictures.  I followed them for a while and then headed home as Dennis had disappeared and was thinking about breakfast.
 A little ways further, I came across a young man tethering his goats for the day.  I've tried to convince Dennis a goat would be a wonderful addition to our family, but alas, it's not happening.  I had to make do with a hello to the goats and their owner and a few more pictures.
Rounding the turn towards home, I decided to share a picture with you of our local water system.  As you will remember from my last post, we have been without water for 5 days.  It's Good Friday, so I am thinking there will be no one fixing the lines anytime soon.  We are being frugal and so far, so good. As we're going to our friend's home for an Easter Brunch on Sunday, we'll beg another shower if things haven't improved.
Wishing you all a Happy Easter filled with chocolate bunnies, good friends, and good times.
"ALL I WANT IS PEACE, LOVE, UNDERSTANDING, AND A CHOCOLATE BAR BIGGER THAN MY HEAD." Anonymous
Warning!  Don't scratch bug bites!

wagon wheel fence

container house

Oh Boy!  Sweet Rolls!

Above ground water system

Volcan Baru

Neighborhood watch

Looking for a cool piece of wood

Morning shopper

Small casita

Big casa

empty parking lot.  Uh oh!

Our bank to be

German restaurant

Granny's homestyle sausage store

Italian pizza

Mort's Bakery - CLOSED

Taking a stroll

Wait for me

Hmmm!  I wonder if the grass really is greener

Young man tethering his 'lawnmower'

This is tasty

cool cutout in fence

big business here in Boquete

Get out and vote



Monday, April 14, 2014

Won't You Let Me Take You on a Sea Cruise?

Just returned from a fun week of cruising to Cartegena, Colombia and the three Dutch islands of Curacao, Bonnaire, and Aruba.  We drove to Panama City with our new friends, Kris and Joel which made the 7 hr. drive most enjoyable.  Upon arriving in PC, we checked into our very comfortable hotel and took in a few sites before running into more friends at an outdoor bar.  Believing the adage 'the more the merrier', we joined them for a glass of bubbly and had a good chuckle when Dennis broke out his best Spanish to ask for the check, but instead ordered another round of drinks.  Take that, Rosetta Stone.
Driving to Colon the following morning was a real lesson in gratitude.  This port town is very poor, yet the people there are like anywhere else in Panama, mostly friendly and hardworking.  I probably wouldn't stroll around at night, but daytime was a flurry of activity and fun to watch.
Upon boarding, we enjoyed a beautiful evening at sea, although I was a bit seasick, which was not on my playlist for the week.  I woke up feeling fine and the rest of the cruise was smooth sailing with fabulous weather and many interesting sites. As there were many  nice folks from Boquete and David on the cruise, we had a merry time.
Cartegena is a gorgeous city with beautiful old buildings, churches, and a rich history.  Sadly, tourism is overzealous, and we were innundated by vendors in the old part of the city.  While I understand the need to make a living, it was almost too much and really detracted from the incredible beauty of this city.  I am hoping we make another trip and spend more time getting to know the 'real' Cartegena.
Curacao was cute, with a floating market and craft mercado, outdoor cafes, and gorgeous beaches.  We hopped a little tour bus and jetted around the island seeing the sites and winding up at a delicious beach for several hours.  We met a young Dutch traveler by the name of Jerome and hung out together for most of the day.  I told him he represented his generation quite well (he bought us a beer) and he replied that he had new respect for our generation as well.  Too funny!
On to Bonnaire, where we were met at the dock by Honey.  Honey and Guies have a home on Bonnaire and were excellent hosts.  They arranged for a day of snorkeling, but alas, I took a header on the coral and chose not to be shark bait as I was bleeding profusely from my cuts.  Dennis and the others had a great time, and I enjoyed the scenery.  Honey and Guies are moving to Porterillos, which is just down the road from us and so our friends took some of their artwork on board with us  to make the move a little easier for them. They have 6 big rescue dogs which they are bringing to Panama with them and will have their hands full with that.
The last island we visited was Aruba, where we connected with some new friends, Darien and Dylan,  from Bocas.  They run a resort on the island of Popa called amazingly enough, the Popa Paradise Beach Resort.  We have an invite, so hope to get there sometime soon. It looks tres chic. Sharing a taxi, we headed to a lovely resort on Eagle Beach and spent the day there.  Seems to me that all 3 islands are quite similar with a mix of caribe natives, a large Jewish population, and of course, the Dutch.  Dennis found it a bit dry and began longing for the cooler Boquete weather.
After a relaxing day at sea, we were ready to head home.  We made a quick trip into Panama City to pick up Dennis' new surfboard and headed home.  Smooth sailing all the way..........until.............dum da dum dum........paperwork check.  We had a slight misunderstanding regarding our temporary visa and almost got a ticket for not having a Panamanian drivers license.  After some fast talking (in Spanish) and a phone call to our lawyer, everything was straightened out and we didn't get a ticket.  It could have been unpleasant and not only would Dennis get a ticket, but Kris as well, because she HAS a Panamanian drivers license and should have known better.  I'm still trying to figure out that one, but it all worked out and this week we are working on obtaining our permanent visa AND our Panamanian drivers licence as well.  Just needed a little incentive like getting pulled over to get the adrenalin running.
Home at last and settling back into the groove.  Did 3 loads of laundry and realized we were out of water.  Such is life here.  Hoping for agua en la manana.
"I HAVEN'T BEEN EVERYWHERE, BUT IT'S ON MY LIST."  Susan Sontag
view from our hotel room in Panama City

neat sculpture

Colon street market

housing in Colon

Leaving port

Lady Luck?

March Madness topside

Power napping

Curacao from the drawbridge

Floating market

Crafts market

beautiful architecture

Jerome and I

Jerome and Dennis

So pretty!  So toxic!

Money from around the world

Gary, Eddie, Ford (the person, not the truck) and Dennis

Sweet friendly scarlet macaws

Darien performs half moon asana under a waterfall

Dennis checking out the action

Gluttony on the high seas

Lesson in driving legally from very polite policia